Gerard,
What are you smoking? Mauritius is one of the most racist countries in the world. Everything here revolves around race: Business, politics, religion. It is a bubbling cauldron of simmering hatred and thinly veiled malevolence. The Malbar hate the Laskar and Creoles. The Laskar hate the Creoles and Malbar. The Creoles hate the Plantation Whites. The Plantation Whites hate everybody. It's a sick, twisted society that presents itself as a model of "multiculturalism" when in reality it institutionalizes the very racial divides it claims to have overcome.
There's a reason why only a handful of powerful White and Indian names dominate the upper echelons of business/government, and why both the Muslim and Creole populations remain consigned to the fringes (though the Laskar have made some progress infiltrating the mid-level bureaucracy in recent years). It's simply how the island works. Your race defines both your prospects and your loyalties. Period.
Note: Though I write as an ex-patriot, my perspective is that of an insider thanks to my marriage into one of the more well-known Hindu Indian families on the island. Surrounded by multiple generations of well-connected native Mauritians, I see and hear about everything that is going on within the dark underbelly of island society - from who's bribing who to get the right permits in Quatre Bornes to which party is passing out what kind of gifts to buy the most votes in Mont Roches (hint: they weren't wearing purple).
Treachery. Corruption. Discrimination. Back-room dirty dealings and sinister cover-ups. These are the facts of life in Mauritian society. But don't take my word for it. Browse lexpress.mu. Then ask Mr. Ramgoolam why he has banned the island's most prominent news outlet from covering his press conferences:
http://lexpress.mu/story/12676-atteinte-a-la-liberte-de-la-presse-les-temoignages-de-solidarite-continuent-a-affluer.htmlOh, that's right - because freedom of the press is not constitutionally guaranteed in Mauritius. Piss off the wrong person and the government shuts you down cold. Sort of like Russia, but with better weather.
And as for those "warm, kind" Mauritian people? Don't be fooled, fellow tourists/ex-pats: They hate you. They resent you. You have what they want, and the only reason they're smiling is to disarm you while they figure out how to best rip you off. Everyone here knows the score - to argue otherwise is to admit that you're in on the scam.
RCK